Split, a major transport hub, is often seen as a stopping off point before quickly hopping on a ferry for the nearby idyllic islands, or heading south to explore the beautiful Adriatic coastline and its rocky coves and picture perfect fishing villages. However, this bustling lived-in city has lots to offer with its cute alleyways tucked inside a quaint old town, as well as a thriving nightlife. Recently it has started to become more than just a stopping point, evidenced by the many new trendy restaurants and bars, not to mention the sheer amount of people promenading along the seafront until the early hours of the morning.
Lunch
‘Bokeria Kitchen’ is a modern, wine orientated restaurant, beautifully decorated inside and with a handful of tables outside, situated on a cute corner in the picturesque old town. The menu was varied with a decent selection of vegetarian options, not always easy to find in this part of the world! Both starters and mains were so appealing that we took both, but one course would have been enough as the portions were pretty generous. The friendly waiter led me through their interesting wine menu and helped me pick a delicious local wine to accompany my burrata starter, and a smooth Chardonnay blend to follow that was perfect with my mushroom and truffle pasta. With a great, relaxed vibe I would happily go back for dinner too. (Domoldova ul.8, Split. Open 8am-1am)
Drink
Croatian wine is still relatively unknown internationally, and their wine culture is still in its infancy. In fact, in some of the more basic bars your white wine will often arrive with an ice cube in the glass, and as one winemaker informed us, many people believe fish should always be served with red wine. However, with a vast variety of regional grapes, and boutique wineries on the rise, high quality wines are increasing and ’Paradox’ wine bar is a great place to sample a few. With an extensive selection of wine by the bottle and the glass, coupled with a rooftop terrace and knowledgable staff that will happily guide you in your selection, this is a great place to kick back and enjoy some Croatian wine. They also have a delicious tapas style menu if you fancy a nibble too. (Open 4pm-12pm)
Dine
The promenade area, know locally as the ‘Riva’, is full of bars and cafes catering to both locals and tourists and is the place to be seen. Sitting tucked amongst generic cafes is ‘Storija’, a restaurant serving beautiful cuisine, overlooking the sea. Perfect for relaxing, dining and people watching. With beautiful flowers surrounding the terrace, it’s easy to feel cozily tucked away from the masses and their menu offers a plentiful array of delicious food as well as fine wine. An excellent selection of fresh fish awaits, and my pasta dish paid homage to what the Croatians do best in terms of meat, their island lamb. It was succulent, tender and utterly delicious. (Obala Hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 15, Split. Open 8am-11pm)
Escape the city
Minutes from the seafront is a beautiful hilly pathway , lined with gorgeous stone houses, that leads up to the forested area of Marjan, full of beautiful pines and amazing viewpoints across the city, the harbour and the nearby islands. Shade is minimal and the hill is steep so be prepared for a climb, but escaping the crowds is worth it.
Stay
‘Priska Luxury Rooms’ is a cute boutique style place and offers a pleasant alternative to a formal hotel. A converted apartment with modern, tastefully renovated rooms just steps from the old town, but far enough away from the madding crowd to be quiet and tranquil. The staff are super friendly and accommodating, and our huge deluxe room had a lovely balcony which was perfect for relaxing in after a hard days sightseeing. Breakfast is served at a cute cafe steps from the seafront.
