One thing you will never fall short of in Kraków is an array of places to eat, drink and be merry. From street food all the way through to fine dining, there is something for everyone and it is exceptionally good value for money. So, being a foodie and intrigued by the prospect of sampling Polish food and wine, I was drawn to this side of the city. Whilst the sights, culture and history of the city are wonderful, my short stay here led me to explore more the vibe of the city rather than its history, and boy what a great vibe it has!
JEWISH QUARTER
This is the trendiest part of the city, and a fascinating glimpse into a relatively untouched example of a pre-war Jewish neighbourhood, almost reminiscent of a film set it is so authentic. With its scruffy houses and graffitied facades, every street unveils another cool boutique or cozy coffee shop. But it’s at night that this area really comes to life with all its buzzing bars and cool eateries. The choice is plentiful, and there are loads of great bars around Plac Nowy, leading into the warren of small streets that surround it. Here’s a short run down of my favourite spots:
Street food
In the heart of the district this is a buzzing space full of food trucks selling a variety of street food. What’s great is the stands change relatively frequently so you won’t know what awaits you, and if you return you won’t be having the same thing twice. Seating is limited so it’s a great place to stop at for a quick bite and beer before heading on to one of the many great bars nearby.
Skwer Judah, Świętego Wawrzyńca 16, 33-332 Kraków. Open daily 12-11pm, Friday and Saturday 12pm-1am.
Kazie
Relaxed and casual brasserie serving a vast variety of French inspired dishes at great prices, including a good selection of French wines by the bottle. Like so many places in Krakow the majority of their tables are in the brick vaulted basement; cozy, intimate and like going back in time, they create a great atmosphere, and it made me glad to be visiting out of season so I could appreciate the beauty of all these intimate basement venues. Their upstairs seating is also lovely, especially at lunch when they offer a set two course menu for 31 zloty. That’s 6 British pounds which is incredible, especially as the quality and atmosphere are great. They have a sister restaurant, Bistro Bazaar, down the road which, whilst still casual, is definitely higher on the hipster scale and so booking is definitely recommended.
Bistro Bazaar, ul.Meiselsa 24, Monday-Thursday 12-11pm, Friday-Saturday 9-2am, Sunday 9-11pm
Alchemia
Buzzing bar near Plac Nowy. Whilst some of the nearby bars do attract the British stag dos, luckily they tend to gravitate more towards the main square which makes the Jewish quarter even more appealing. Kraków has a huge student population, and this bar was brimming with locals and students alike, with a few tourists thrown into the mix.
Alchemia od Kuchni, Estery 5, 31-056 Kraków. Open daily 8am-11pm
Cheder
Whilst the Jewish quarter does light up at night, it’s also great for a daytime wander to explore its coffee shops and little boutiques, as well as a great many vintage shops. Cheder is a great spot to relax in after a bit of shopping. This is a Jewish café, with a great relaxed vibe, serving a variety of small Israeli inspired dishes as well as some scrummy cakes. The book lined walls give it a literary feel and mean if you’re visiting solo then you won’t be short of reading material. Sit back, read a book and linger over coffee and cake as we did! Take a further look at their website to see the variety of events they offer, including free classical music on a Sunday.
Cheder, Józefa 36, 31-056 Kraków, open daily 10am-10pm
City centre
The old town is the focal point of the city, not surprising given its breathtaking main square which is the largest square in Europe. Here, pretty narrow pastel buildings line the nearby cobbled streets; reminiscent of Vienna, the tumultuous history Poland has encountered under different rules and the resulting architectural influences are everywhere. Whilst the main square is classed as the touristic epicentre, with rows of horse drawn carriages and their drivers touting for business, you cannot argue with the charm of sitting in a cafe people-watching whilst looking out over the square. My advice is, if you can, discover this area away from the weekend as this is when it becomes a bit rowdy. We enjoyed the vibe mid-week and then indulged in some fine-dining when Friday night arrived, definitely the best plan of attack.
Market time
Just behind the main square lies a wonderful market with stands selling fresh bread and Polish delicacies, and it is here I tried my first Polish wine, which I have to say was quite delicious. There are also some great craft stalls, and a live music stage with everything carrying on until the evening. Definitely worth heading over this way as both locals and tourists hang out in this spot.
Rynek Maly 31-000 Kraków, behind the main square. Various markets on throughout the year, just stop by and see what’s going on!
No 7
Whilst many of the cafes and bars on the main square are tourist centred, there are a few good ones thrown into the mix, and I enjoyed a delicious goats cheese salad here, followed by some good old-fashioned Polish dumplings (yum). Their outdoor area has heaters in winter, and if you’re looking for something more romantic in the evening, they have a lovely basement restaurant. Although, personally, if I’m going to be eating on the main square I want to enjoy the view, so we opted to eat outside and enjoyed a delicious lunch with great service.
No 7, Rynek Główny 7, 31-042 Kraków, Open daily 12-11pm
Szara
Great bar on the main square with a decent selection of wines and beer for good prices. It’s not the outside seating on the square that is the attraction, but the cave like ambience of the bar which really appealed to me and I just loved having a pre-dinner drink here. They have an adjoining restaurant which has the same old-fashioned ambience combined with a great menu. The restaurant definitely attracts more tourists than locals, but is still worth considering. Personally, I just loved hanging out in the bar.
Szara, Rynek Główny 6, 30-001 Kraków, Open daily 11am-10pm
Albertina
Unbenownst to me, fine dining options in Krakow are quite plentiful and so I was quite spoilt for choice when it came to booking our Friday night restaurant. The value for money here is so amazing that it just seemed rude to not partake, and I found that whilst the quality was as high as a similar London establishment, it was half the price and as a result the atmosphere, whilst still formal, was far less pretentious which I much prefer.
Albertina is a wine restaurant, and so their menu had various wine recommendations for every dish in measures ranging from a thimbleful through to a 125ml measure. They had an amazing selection of wine by the bottle, but it was their choice of 44 wines by the glass that really impressed me. I just loved being able to sample various wines from all over the world, and they made the perfect accompaniment to my dishes. From a Polish orange wine (an acquired taste but divine) with my vegetarian amuse- bouche, to the weighty Lebanese red that paired perfectly with my lamb cutlets, to the finale of a honey-sweet Tokaji served with my dessert which was quite truly a work of art. This sculptural masterpiece of a birch log topped with reindeer moss and chocolate resembled a forest floor and was the perfect end to a wonderful evening.
Albertina, Dominikańska 3, 31-043 Kraków, Open daily 12-11pm
From jam doughnuts at breakfast, to dumplings at lunch and culinary perfection in the evening, my 48 hours in Krakow challenged my pre-conceived notions of Polish cuisine and led me on an absolutely wonderful food-tastic tour of what Poland has to offer, and I cannot wait to return and sample more.
