Basilicata

Basilicata is a region in the south of Italy, it nestles at the point where Italy’s boot and heel divide into Campania and Puglia.  A beautiful and mountainous region, unfettered by tourism, its lush, green landscape offers a completely different vision of Italy.

We entered Basilicata driving south from Rome, en route to Puglia.  With Basilicata being such a mountainous and unspoilt region, it is only really accessible by car, and this offers you the chance to really appreciate the quiet and windy roads that offer beautiful views of the region.

Our first and only stop was Matera, which is the main attraction in this region.  A town carved out of the local stone (Sassi), its centre is perched at the top, fanning out downwards with houses jutting out at every angle.  Whilst arriving by car allowed us to appreciate the breathtaking view on approach, we soon became lost in the maze of the centre before finally finding our hotel which had parking nearby, and so I would advise heading for the parking at the bottom of the town rather than trying to navigate the centre.

Basilicata has always been a poor region, and up until the 1980s Matera was no exception.  The cave like dwellings in Matera, originally from the troglodyte era, were largely uninhabited until the area was granted UNESCO funding to restore and renovate many of these dwellings, and our hotel was one of these places to receive said funding.

‘Le grotte della civita’ is a beautiful hotel, all the cave like rooms renovated from the original sassi dwellings, making the hotel an exceptionally original experience.  Whilst sleeping in a cave does not immediately cry out luxury, the rooms have been decorated to the highest standard, with beautiful simple furnishings that complement the sand coloured stone perfectly.  The rooms all have open style bathrooms, my sink and bathtub were separated from the room only by a small wall.  Upon arrival, a little bit hungry and eager to try the local wine, the staff were extremely accommodating and we settled ourselves in the relaxing outdoor area for nibbles and a delicious primitivo from neighbouring Puglia, and in the morning  there was the traditional Italian breakfast (everything is sweet!) laid out in the cave dining room which was delicious.

The rooms are quite dark, you really do get an authentic cave experience, and they are not overly practical lacking such things as wardrobes, but the atmosphere more than makes up for it.  For this reason I would recommend this hotel for a 1-2 night stay.  Prices start at €200 in low season for a classic room, leading up to €600 for an executive suite.

Heading into Matera in the evening we found a small but lively town with lots of small streets to explore and get lost in, the fact that the town is on many different levels makes for an interesting experience!  We ate at restaurant ‘L’abbondanza Lucana‘ in piazza S. Francesco d’Assisi, it had a very pleasant small outdoor area, and the interior is once again a renovated cave which adds some atmosphere if you choose to dine inside.  Wandering around the centre, especially in the summer months, you will find many Italians out for their evening stroll ‘passeggiata’, and you will easily find somewhere to enjoy a nice glass of wine whilst watching the world go by.

Alternative accommodation

• Residenza dei Suoni  A simple but well furnished B and B offering quality accommodation at a reasonable price.  Rooms are fresh and bright, and the residence is located in the centre of the city.  Prices start at around €100, note there is no elevator.
• B and B alle Malve A good option if you don’t want to spend too much, prices start at €80.  Centrally located, with simple, clean rooms and nicely decorated rooms and some rooms come with a balcony.
• Residence Santa Cesarea A hotel with fun and modern decor, and rooms with views over i sassi.  Prices start at €150 for a double.
• Corte San Pietro Another lovingly restored authentic hotel, attention to detail is splendid