Lush greenery, babbling brooks cascading down imposing mountains, and quaint alpine chalets passed me by as I nestled comfortably in the old fashioned compartment of the Bolzano-Innsbruck train, and I swear if I’d heard the rumble of a steam engine I would have been convinced I was travelling back in time.
Pastel buildings line the river.
I’d read that Innsbruck is often overlooked as a destination and instead used as merely a passing point before heading into the mountains; and having researched little more than that Innsbruck could offer me fresh mountain air I had no idea of what to expect. In my mind I was certain it was tiny, but upon arrival I discovered although small it is a real city that thrives beyond the confines of the medieval gabled old town. One side of the river is lined with beautiful pastel buildings sitting tiny against the vast mountainous backdrop that as you wander the city takes your breath away. Every corner turned and every narrow street walked offers a glimpse of the mountains which never fail to impress.
Atmospheric old town with the mountains in the background.
Of course one has to start in the old town, a small enclave near the river its cobbled streets and medieval architecture are an impressive sight, boasting a warren of small streets lined with touristic but enjoyable bierkellers highlighting the traditions of this region, the Tyrol. Away from the city, further into the mountains lie quaint villages with alpine pastures and locals yodelling the traditional ‘volksmusik’, but if you’re not quite ready for cowbells and mountain huts then you can enjoy a more relaxed stein in the city where only your waitress has to wear the traditional dress!
Innsbruck centre expands further than I thought.
But its not all tradition. The modern city teems with life, the riverside market hall has cute french and Italian cafés perfect for a quick bite, the futuristic funicular takes you up to an alpine zoo from where you can embark on a spectacular cable car journey, and after an invigorating walk along the river the beautifully manicured gardens of the ‘hofgarten’ are perfect for relaxing in (and there’s even a wee beer garden there if you fancy a quick pint!) Whist I wouldn’t suggest more than a day or two here, I think before heading off into the mountains this underrated city merits more than just a train transfer or coach stop, and it also makes a nice base for interesting day trips. So why not enjoy a slice of small city life, go a little bit back in time, and indulge in some Tyrolean culture before donning your skis or cycling down the mountain paths.
Relaxing gardens for a stroll.
The old town boasts a plethora of eateries and if you’re here to eat schnitzel then you’re in luck but if you fancy a change there are also a small array of alternative options. I was surprised at how early they eat here (between 6-8) but I noticed once away from the traditional establishments it was more Continental and eating at 8 or 8.30 wasn’t a problem.
Riverside cafes at the market
Market hall with its fresh fruit and veg stands.
Whilst not much to look at from the outside, the market hall is worthy of a visit with fresh fruit and veg on offer, and some small cafés with outdoor seating overlooking the river. I stopped at a French cafe and enjoyed a delicious crepe at a very reasonable price. Next door was an Italian cafe serving panini and there was also a lovely wine bar worth a look.
Covered terrace bar of the Penz hotel.
Cool galerie bar.
If wine is your tipple then ‘Invinium’ in the old town is definitely worth a pit stop , being a gorgeous wine bar with outdoor seating and friendly service. With a great wine list and affordable prices this is the place to taste some Austrian wine. I also stopped for a drink at the rooftop bar of the ultra modern ‘Penz hotel’. A closed terrace with views over the mountains it wasn’t as spectacular as I was led to believe but it was a relaxing space for an upmarket cocktail. If you’re more into trendy than upmarket and you fancy a cocktai head to ‘cafe galerie’, a really cool bar with a vast cocktail menu smoking is permitted at the bar which seemed the norm in some places so it just depends what vibe you’re looking for
Roasted courgette against stylish minimal decor.
I also ate at ‘Dengg’, a modern restaurant in the old town with Scandinavian style decor, it had an interesting menu that had a varied selection of vegetarian options and my roasted courgette with quinoa and feta, drizzled with lime, was delicious. Nearby there is also a bustling Nepalese restaurant if you are looking for alternative cuisine, and away from the old town I ate at a lovely pizzeria ‘Dei Pizzeria’ and was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the pizza. The decor was clean and modern, staff friendly, and there was also a popular outdoor terrace for dining. They had an interesting selection of wines by the glass and I tried my first ‘Incrocio Manzoni’, a little known Italian grape which isn’t seen too often it has floral overtones with a zingy grapefruit style freshness to it.
Beautiful view from my bedroom window.
Modern alpine decor at the Hotel Innsbruck.
Accommodation is reasonably priced although the area caters so much for groups passing through that you won’t find sumptious luxury here, but there are lots of decent places. I stayed at the ‘Hotel Innsbruck’, recently renovated in a modern alpine style it was extremely comfortable and there was a small pool in the basement which was a bonus. Make sure you book a superior room as the standard rooms are yet to be renovated, and be sure to request a room with a view as I just loved drawing the curtains in the morning and seeing the mountains.
Hotel Innsbruck, rooms start from €120 – http://www.hotelinnsbruck.com/en.html –
