Montalcino

The small and beautiful hilltop town of Montalcino, nestled towards the south of Tuscany, is arguably surrounded by some of the most spectacular scenery this region has to offer.  Rolling hills covered in vines, lush greenery, and a variety of flora and fauna create the quintessential picture postcard image of Tuscany.

Montalcino is home to one of the most famous wines in Tuscany, ‘Brunello di Montalcino’.  A DOCG, its requirements are that the wine must be 100% Sangiovese with a minimum of 24 months oak ageing, its total ageing before release being a minimum of five years.  A warm and dry area with cascading hills and sun baked slopes, the terroir brings the best out of the Sangiovese grape.  The result is a beautifully sophisticated wine with smooth tannins and balanced acidity, the ageing process allowing earthy, spicy notes to develop with hints of liquorice and caramel, and a velvety finish.  ‘Rosso di Montalcino’, a less aged version requiring only a 12 month minimum in oak, provides a perfect early example of how a Brunello of the same vintage might develop, whilst also providing a fantastic value for money wine that is ready for drinking at a much younger age, and yet still offers sophistication with its soft, red fruit and light, smooth tannins.

The focus within the village itself is the wine shops lining the main street, selling beautiful wine and offering various tasting opportunities. Quaint and atmospheric, the town itself deserves a wander and makes a great base for exploring the area’s other beautiful villages such as Pienza or San Quirico D’Orcia. Visiting in November meant that, whilst a bit on the chilly side, we were able to escape the plethora of tour groups and crowds that a summer visit would entail.

 

Of course, a great wine can become even more fantastic with food, and the village offers some top quality restaurants.  We dined in ‘Drogheria Franci‘,  a restaurant/wine bar, with a modern decor offering delicious food and a wine list as thick as a bible.  Our waiter was helpful but not obtrusive and we chose a 2004 Brunello (selezione Franci) from the producer Tassi; whilst very expensive, it is perfect for drinking now with the age giving gamey, earthy notes that paired perfectly with my mushroom risotto, and at the end of the day to truly experience the beauty and complexity of a wonderful Brunello it is necessary to spend a bit!  Deciding to try the local sweet wine ‘Moscadello di Montalcino’with our chocolate dessert, the entire bottle was plonked in front of us and he insisted we just help ourselves.  Naturally, it would have been rude to object, and to be fair the nutty, honey notes of the wine thoroughly deserved a second tasting. (Piazzale Fortezza 6,  T: (+39)0577 848191) also offering charming rooms in their nearby B and B, rooms start at €195)

We discovered, whilst lost one day, another wonderful restaurant in the tiny hilltop village of Sant’Angelo in Colle, only a short drive from Montalcino.  Home to two restaurants and a wine bar, we dined at ‘Il Leccio‘; an intimate and atmospheric restaurant with a rustic interior complete with stone walls and a roaring wood burner in the main dining area.  The menu is traditionally Tuscan, simple, delicious fare with, naturally, the opportunity to accompany your meal with a good glass of Brunello.  Our ‘Col D’Orcia 2011‘, a traditional example of Brunello, aged for three years in Slavonian oak, was full of red fruit with a soft oak that paired perfectly with our hearty pasta dishes. (Via Costa Castellare 1, Sant’Angelo In Colle.  T:0577 844175 Booking essential.)

Our second day involved a private tasting at a local winery ‘Sesti’.  After numerous wrong turns and phone calls from atop many an incorrect hill or winding road, we trundled up a long and bumpy dirt path and arrived at one of the most beautiful vineyards I have ever been to. Elisa, who is half English/Italian and speaks both languages fluently, was an utterly gracious and fascinating host.  She proceeded to show us around the spectacular vineyard and grounds, which were all but derelict when they first bought the property, whilst describing the microclimate so special to this area that helps create all the complexities and subtle differences Brunello is renowned for. Her father, the owner of the vineyard, being a professor of astronomy, has focused passionately on the making of organic and biodynamic wines, following an ancient lunar cycle which inspired the beautiful labels of their ‘Phenomena’ wine.  I learnt a great deal during the tasting, the most memorable fact being that one should cut one’s hair during a full moon to promote growth; something which also applies to vines, as their ability for regrowth and health is much stronger at this time (I have to say my hair is looking rather lustrous these days!!).  Whilst biodynamic wine is not always the easiest concept to understand, Elisa’s explanations were so factual and fascinating that I believe this is a subject that deserves more contemplation and acclaim.

After our breathtaking tour we settled down for a tasting and their wines were exquisite.  Their Brunello were beautifully complex with hints of spice and subtle oak, but it was their Rosso di Montalcino (2014) that I really fell in love with; a young wine capable of such sophistication being so rare.  Having been told off once in France for back-tracking on a wine, ie: wanting to try the simpler wine after tasting an aged, full-bodied wine, I was nervous about asking to try their Rosso again but I just had to have another taste, it was so delicious.  Elisa had no problem with it, she said sometimes it’s great to do that as you can really discern whether the wine can stand up to its bigger counterparts.  And it could.  I just wish their wines were more readily available, but such is the beauty and exclusivity of small production vineyards that offer exquisite wines. Whilst their tastings are generally more for people working in wine, their wines can be found in shops in Montalcino, online, and also in wine shops outside of Italy, as they deal primarily with exports.