Sitting in my Florentine apartment, 35 degrees outside and glued to my air conditioning unit, I felt in a depression. Not only is Florence sweltering in summer, it is a tropical humid heat and the only way to deal with it is to stay indoors until at least 6pm, and even then being out at 8pm can still leave you in a lather of sweat. I was feeling trapped, housebound, I needed to escape… something had to be done! I did a desperate search of places accessible by train with reasonable temperatures. My eyes stumbled on the mountainous region to the north of Italy…Bolzano! And why not….maybe even Austria!
Swimming pool relaxation at the Parkhotel Laurin
A while ago I wrote a post on Bolzano declaring that it would be a better place to visit in summer and so I decided to put that declaration to the test. I booked myself a room once again at the wonderful ‘Parkhotel Laurin’ and was lucky enough to take advantage of the last weekend of their Sunday special; sumptuous gardens and a day lazing by their swimming pool awaited me, I couldn’t wait! And since fresh mountain air was my priority I decided I would then continue on to Innsbruck in Austria, unchartered territory for me.
Bustling cafes in the centre.
Arriving in Bolzano to a beautiful and fresh heat I saw another city. Pavement cafes full of people, locals out in full flow with prams in tow, bikes whizzing along the cobbled streets. The town buzzed, the quirky turrets and pastel buildings suddenly took on an evocative form I hadn’t noticed when huddled under my umbrella in November. The fresh air and soft sun allowed me to explore much further than before; I had read about a riverside walk up to the nearby ‘Castle Roncolo’ and whilst I didn’t make it to the castle I did discover an absolutely beautiful park (Parco Petrarca) and river perfect for walking or cycling alongside or indeed just relaxing. With the exquisite greenery, mountain backdrop and turret lined pathway it was perfection and I cannot even begin to describe how relaxed I felt.
Beautiful park just next to the river
Main square, Piazza Walther buzzing with activity.
I stopped for a quick glass of Gewerztramier at the Stadtcafe on Piazza Walther, people watching perfection on the main square, before returning to the hotel to sample their cuisine. In summer their restaurant is outdoors under a marquee surrounded by the hotel’s gardens, a relaxed , intimate and sophisticated ambiance. I commenced with an aubergine parmigiana, layers of fresh aubergine and mozzarella it was simple but delicious and my equally simple spaghetti to follow was just as satisfying. The portions were small making more than one course necessary, but this just prolonged the dining experience making it even more relaxing. They have a good wine list and a decent selection of wines by the glass, I opted for a local Pinot noir which had a soft mushroom aroma and a strong red berry palate, it was soft and subtle and the perfect red for a summer evening.
Before retiring to my bed I took the rest of my wine and settled myself in a beautiful spot within the hotel’s grounds, secluded and peaceful with only the soft lapping of the water feature behind me it was a paradise of perfection. The grounds are small but they have secluded benches dotted around, as well as a lounge bar near the pool and a small terrace area off the main bar. Whether you are looking for a romantic night or just happy to sit and read your book like I was, this place suits all.
One of the atmospheric spots in the hotel’s grounds.
Quirky modern and yet old fashioned decor at ‘Fink’
The next day, before heading onwards for my Austrian adventure, I grabbed a quick lunch at ‘Fink’ a casual and relaxed restaurant in the centre of town. A sort of whimsically modern and yet old fashioned interior, with a nice outdoor terrace on the main street, it makes a great spot to grab lunch. I enjoyed a lovely plate of grilled veg with cheese washed down with a delicious value for money Pinot Bianco.
Impressive glass structure home to ‘interesting’ works of art.
Outdoor area to the museum’s cafe.
I also stopped off at the Museum of Modern Art ‘Museion” housed in an impressive square glass structure it stood out against the medieval turrets of this area. The museum focuses more on conceptual art and photography so it may not be to everyone’s taste but it’s worth a look if you are a contemporary art enthusiast, and there is a nice cafè for a coffee or light lunch with a good selection of salads and pasta on the menu. It also makes a great lunch spot to relax in when the centre is full as it’s a little off the tourist route.
Exil cafe, quirky decor and covered terrace.
En route to pick up my suitcase I also stumbled across a gorgeous cafe slightly away from the hustle and bustle in a slightly hidden square, and decided to stop for a quick coffee. Called ‘Exil’, the modern, funky interior and nice terrace created a great, relaxed atmosphere and it would also make a good lunch spot with salads and sandwiches on the menu. For a quick glass of wine I would also suggest ‘La gatta matta’, with tasty local wines by the glass as well as delicious nibbles and ham platters, it makes a nice stopping point and the long communal table overlooking the busy street is a great place to rub shoulders with the locals.
La Gatta Matta – Via Leonardo Da Vinci 1H, 8am – 1am
Exil Lounge Cafe – Piazza del Grano, 2A, 9am-midnight
Stadtcafe – Piazza Walther, 21 7am-11pm
Museum of Modern Art – Piazza Siena, 1, 10am-6pm closed Mondays
Castle Maretsch – (featured in main picture) is near the river and is available to hire for weddings and events www.maretsch.info
Castle Roncolo – Sentiero Kaiser-Franz-Josef-Weg, 10am-6pm. Can be reached on foot alongside river through parco petrarca, 40 minutes including an incline. Otherwise a shuttle bus leaves every half hour from Piazza Walther, alternatively you can get the number 12 bus from the same place.
Parco Petrarca – Via Luigi Cadorna, 21
