Lyon has always been a relatively traditional city, and despite having been a regular visitor for the past twenty years, lots rests unchanged. However, recently the young and hip Lyonnais have started to really make their presence felt in this beautiful city, and nothing shows it more than in some of the trendy new eateries, cafés and shops that have begun to spring up across the city.
During my recent visit I was welcomed by below freezing temperatures and so began the search for the perfect coffee shop where I could rest my cold and weary bones and slowly warm up without feeling rushed. And what I discovered was a great variety of cafés, all beautifully decorated and furnished and suitably welcoming and inviting. Here is a run down of my favourite spots.
La Bicycletterie
Not being far from the mountains you may find yourself ending up one day in Lyon with your bike in tow. And should any problems arise, this café/bike repair shop is the place to go. Enjoy a bite to eat whilst your bike is fixed, or just pop in for a cuppa. Bike or no bike, it’s a pretty cool spot to hang out in. Situated in the hip Terreaux area, the surrounding independent artists’ shops offer a great chance to scout out some unique clothes or crafts.
La Bicycletterie, 16 Rue Romarin, open Tues-Fri 8.30am-7pm, Sat 9.30am-7pm, closed Sunday and Monday
Jeannine & Suzanne
In an equally cool spot is Café Jeannine & Suzanne situated just off Rue de la Charité and next to the pretty little square of Place Gailleton which is home to some cute restaurants. Rue de la Charité is a small street that leads from Place Bellecour up to Perrache station and trendy new shops sit side by side against some old-fashioned unchanged establishments still popular with the locals. This is a great street to wander along, as is Rue Auguste Comte with its upmarket clothes shops and antique dealers, running parallel to Rue de la Charité.
Café Jeannine & Suzanne is family friendly so don’t hesitate to take your wee one along, but during the week it’s also a great place to relax and get some work done. The front room has a few tables and a range of delicious cakes on display, whilst the back is home to more tables and some comfy couches. Serving tea, coffee and a range of fruit juices as well as goodies this is a fab café.
Jeannine & Suzanne, 34 Rue Saint-Hélène, open daily 9.30am-7pm, Sat 11am-7pm, Sun 11am-5pm
Diggers
New and wonderful spot on a small street near the Terreaux district, this chocolate bar just exudes charm and appeal. Decorated in a minimalist Scandinavian style, the two guys running the place are really passionate about making sure you enjoy your experience. From the correct brewing of a herbal tea, to discussing the chocolate content of your ‘chocolat chaud’, you can be sure to get great service. The atmosphere is relaxed, and the extensive range of chocolate bars with their artistic and beautiful packaging are there to tempt you. Not one to go visit when on a diet, but if you fancy indulging, head there now before everyone else discovers it.
6 Rue Neuve, open daily 9am-7pm, Sat/Sun 10am-7pm, closed Mondays
Slake coffee house
It wasn’t the best espresso I’ve ever had, but the atmosphere more than makes up for it, and having being in Italy only hours before possibly made me extra critical. But Slake Coffee House is always brimming with people, and its trendy decor (which includes a seat converted from an old bath tub) does appeal and encourages you to linger over a cappuccino and soak up the atmosphere. Situated in a great part of town just a stones throw from the river and the upmarket shopping district, this is a café well worth heading too. Word of warning, if you go at the weekend expect to have to queue for a table.
Slake Coffee House, 9 Rue de l’Ancienne Préfecture. Open Mon-Fri 8am-7pm, Sat 10am-7pm and Sun 11am-7pm
Kaffee Berlin
Centrally located, with another over near the university district, the fact it serves proper food and alcohol make it a bit more than a café but it still has the same relaxed vibe. Eclectically decorated, including tables covered with Super Mario and Banksy inspired images, as well as menus printed onto old vinyl sleeves, Kaffee Berlin is a cool spot to head to for a light lunch and a beer.
4 Rue Tupin (also 26 Cours Albert Thomas near the university district) Open daily 10am-midnight, Sun 5pm-11pm
Les Cafetièrs
Gorgeous little cafè not far from all the main shops, this serves a great range of delicious and healthy food, making it perfect for breakfast, lunch or just a cup of tea and cake. Incredibly popular, you may have to fight for a table, but don’t let that put you off. Their delicious sandwiches will soon calm you down, and with vegetarian and vegan options available this is a café that caters for everyone. There is also a cute courtyard at the back, perfect for the summer months.
Les Cafetièrs, 36 Rue Ferrandière. Open daily 9am-7pm, Sat 10am-7pm, Sun 10am-5pm
C-Gastronomie
Whilst not technically a hip cafè, but more of a cool patisserie, this is still one of my go-to places when I am in Lyon. A group of entrepreneurs that are passionate about cuisine opened a variety of patisseries and restaurants in and around Lyon, serving high quality food in beautiful surroundings as well as catering for various events around the city. Their central Lyon patisserie is small but perfectly formed, with an array of cakes, macaroons and gooey deliciousness on display, with a deli style section at the back. More take-out than eat-in, there are still a few seats at the front, and they serve delicious Nespresso coffee to accompany your cake or pastry. Pop in for a quick indulgence, or in the summer buy a scrummy strawberry tart and head to the nearby river with it to chill out and enjoy the views.
C-Gastronomie. Central Lyon location, Republique-17 Rue Childebert. Open daily 10am-7.30pm, closed Sundays. See website for other locations.